front end admin bar resolutely missing

I’m installing and customizing a new site, something very simple. I’m using the 2016 theme with the simple child theme, and I also use Yellow Pencil. But sparingly. And no blocks. No interest in jumping into that bottomless pit, so I’ll stick with the classic editors.

Thus far I am the only registered user. I have admin status, of course. According to my user page, I should be seeing the admin bar on the front end, but no such luck. On my other sites I do see the admin bar, just not on this one.

I have read various threads here, but nothing has worked out. I really hope someone will be able to tell me how to fix this, because I hadn’t realized how much time that up-front admin bar saves.

Any suggestions much appreciated.

The page I need help with: [log in to see the link]